Ford taurus ball joint removal tool

The full range adjustable tool set with The heavy duty tool set is excellent for the removal and installation of press-fit parts such as ball joints , universal joint and truck brake anchor pins for 2WD and 4WD vehicles. Stores are responsible for providing Bizrate with correct and current prices. Sales taxes and shipping costs are estimates; please check store for exact amounts.

Product specifications are obtained from merchants or third parties. Although we make every effort to present accurate information, Bizrate is not responsible for inaccuracies. We encourage you to notify us of any discrepancies by clicking here. Store ratings and product reviews are submitted by online shoppers; they do not reflect our opinions and we have no responsibility for their content.

By Seller Overstock. By Keyword. Best Seller. More like this Find other Automotive Repair Tools Product Detail From Overstock. Ads related to ford ball joint removal tool. Best prices on Ford ball joint removal tool in Automotive Repair Tools online. Visit Bizrate to find the best deals on top brands. You can't use the Harbor Frieght ball joint tool or any 3in1 C-tool. It won't work. The ball joint spindle is too small to fit properly.

You don't need it. Take it back. Listen to shrod. Remove the hub. Cut off the rubber boot and take off the snap ring important if it there. Flip the whole thing over and place the top end of the strut hole on a block of wood.

Step on it to secure. And use a 30mm impact socket you needed it to take off axle nut and start to tap the joint out. You will need to switch to a smaller socket to finish tapping out small enough to fit through the ball joint hole, 30mm is too big. You might be right about there being no snap ring on the original. I don't remember having one on my original, but I didn't remove the original.

It might just be pressed in, but then I don't see how it was initially inserted, as the fit is pretty tight hence the oven method in my previous post. If it won't come out at first, clean it well and throw it in the oven. It seriously does work. Colt Hero, I just re-read your post and I misunderstood. You are right. The original Ford ball joint is probably pressed in at the factory "up" from the control arm. The aftermarket replacement joints are pressed "down" through the hole and retained with a snap ring.

I would clean the dickens out of it. Wrap the whole thing up in foil, place it in a clean junk metal pan. Put it in the oven. Remove from oven. Pound out the joint from the top down with a socket and a long extension or breaker bar.

It will need to be long enough to reach through the strut hole, since it is straight shot for both holes. First, just make sure there is nothing retaining the "top" of the joint.

Got the joint installed this past weekend. Used a shop press from Harbor Freight friend's to push the old joint out - after cutting off the joint's stud with a Dremel.

It was a little tricky leveling the awkwardly-shaped knuckle inside the press to line it up. Then, I ended up renting the ball joint press kit from Autozone to press the new joint in, but the attachments didn't quite work because they were either too short on the threaded end or too large on the flat circular end ran into the body of the knuckle , so I improvised and purchased a short piece of galv.

This fit over the threaded end. Then I placed a 2nd cap 1. About 5 minutes later, the previously frozen joint was completely pressed in! Had a heck of a time trying to get the ball joint stud to slip into the control arm.

Kept forcing the arm down then at the same time moving the knuckle into position, only to come up short every time. Finally realized that if I put the hub nut back on and tightened it to draw the half-shaft inward, this would make things a lot easier. Too bad I whacked the stabilizer link off beforehand the joints were history anyway. So it's all back together - except for the new stabilizer link that I just picked up from Ford. Right now it's actually a safer car to drive, but it sounds worse than ever with that loose link rattling around in there.

I hope I can replace this link without having to tear everything apart again! It's just two bolts Maybe have someone sit on the fender while I do it?

When they say the joint is "pressed in", they mean it. It's tightly in there. And there WAS a snap ring on the original, but the new Ford joint didn't come with one. I just transferred it over even though it didn't look necessary. You cannot use their saucer-shaped adapter when pressing the new joint in because it's too big. It ends up bumping into the body of the knuckle immediately.

The 1. It just wasn't budging. My friend's HB Press got it out, but couldn't put the new joint in due to the lack of clearance and improper angle. I DID pre-freeze the joint for about 3 hours beforehand, but it's questionable how much that helped. It seemed to defrost almost immediately as I struggled to line up the threaded pipe and caps inside the ball joint C-clamp. Didn't do the oven thing with the knuckle because I was afraid of deforming it besides the problem of simply handling it.

The joint had to be pushed up and out from the threaded end ground side and pressed down and in from the circular cap end half-shaft side. Thanks for your support guys.

I really appreciate it. It's like having someone there with you through the entire process I changed out the anti-swaybar endlinks on my '98 SHO with no problems getting the studs lined up. The problem I had was getting the old bolts off. They were rusted from the salt used during the Iowa winters.

I started trying to hold the stud on the end with one wrench while using another to loosen the nut, but that was not easy. So I got out the steel blade with the cordless reciprocating saw and cut the studs off between the anti-swaybar and nut, then the new ones lined right up and went in easily.

If you have difficulty getting them to line up with the wheel off and the car properly supported on jack stands, you could use the jack to lift the anti-sway bar into position to line everything up, but I doubt you'll need to go that route.

Congratulations, Colt Hero. It really is a hard, crappy job to replace those joints. As you know, you can really get a major workout doing it. Like I had said earlier, I didn't remove my original Ford joints. The shop guy informed me he had a really hard time removing them, so even with a shop press it ain't easy, but it is the correct way to go. I imagine with k on those joints, they are just about welded in there. Getting the ball joint spindle in the control arm can be hit or miss.

Sometimes it goes right in, other times I've had one just barely not make it repeatedly, and it is frustrating as hell. I guess a guy could place a jack under the engine cradle and unscrew the rear bushing bolt and let the cradle down a few centimeters. It just takes more time to do. Shorod: I kind of jumped the gun with the stabilizer link.

In my struggle to get the ball joint stud to drop into the control arm hole, at one point I tried to lift the knuckle up as high on the strut column as possible to give more clearance on the bottom.

It looked like the stabilizer link was preventing me from doing this, so I tried disconnecting the top bolt. It unscrewed a few threads then just kept turning. I didn't realize until I bought the replacement link that you need to hold the very end of this stud with an 8mm wrench while you turn the nut with a 2nd wrench 18mm, I believe it is.

So instead, I jammed vice-grips into the exposed joint rubber cover was history trying to hold it steady on that end. After much mangling, I finally got the top nut off. The bottom nut looks harder. It points inward with little clearance. I'll keep the jack idea in mind.

Cufarley: Funny now, but I also tried using my racing jack with a block of wood underneath the lip of the hub, jacking the knuckle up slightly to try to gain more leverage and leeway in getting the ball joint stud into the arm hole.

Not a good idea - the jack finally shot outward away from the car as it lost its leverage. Also funny was the episode at Harbor Freight. A female clerk suggested I have her mechanic husband press the joint in for me. I figured, "what the heck", so I spoke with the guy on the telephone. I must've told him 5 different ways that the joint had to be pressed into the knuckle not the arm he didn't think so , and that I had the knuckle already removed and it was a 5-minute job for someone with the proper fittings to press in the joint.

The guy just refused to listen to what I was telling him. Once again, thanks guys for your support. You've both been added to my list of trusted posters. However, I had to make special adapters for the Taurus. I reduced the diameter of the 11gauge tube, so that the I. All of the parts were welded to create two removal and two installation adapters. The rubber boot must be removed from the old ball joint, before using the two removal adapters.